Polly Guerin
- Fashion Review, Guest Blogger, HEW Hotels, Polly Guerin, Punk: Chaos to Culture, The Metropolitan Museum
When Punk Meets High Fashion
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, “Punk: Chaos to Culture”From left, looks from Yohji Yamamoto, Viktor & Rolf and Chanel.Photo by Thomas Iannaccone, via WWD.comJust what exactly defines the punk era? Is it anarchy, rebellion or a do-it-yourself venue that continues to engage and excite our imagination? In this compelling and outrageous exhibition, “PUNK: Chaos and Couture,” May 9 to August 14 at New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute,curator Andrew Bolton argues high fashion has adopted punk style more than any other counter cultural movement. The exhibition examines punk’s impact on high fashion from the movement’sbirth in the 1970s through its continuing influence today.
Karl Lagerfeld for House of ChanelPhotograher: David Sims PUNK’S ORIGINSince its origins, punk has had an incendiary influence on fashion,” said Mr.Bolton. Punk began in the mid-1970s as youth movement centered on the music scene at New York, CBGB club and then moved to London and there it grew full blown and fashion-focused with designers Vivienne Westwood at the helm. Punk broke all the rules in a time when originality was celebrated and championed the individual’s individuality. The museum explores this visually with 100 designs for men and women.
COMPARISON VIEWSOriginal pink garments from the mid-1970s are juxtaposed with recent, directional fashion to illustrate how haute couture and ready-to-wear have borrowed punk’s visual symbols, with paillettes being replaced by safety pins, feathers with razor blades, and bugle beads with studs, and other hardware. The exhibit is organized around the materials, techniques and embellishments associated with the anti-establishment style.GALLERY PRESENTATIONSThe seven galleries, organized thematically have designated punkheroes. The first gallery is devoted to CBGB represented by Blondie, Richard Hell, The Ramones andPatti Smith., Next gallery is inspired by Malcolm McClaren and Vivienne Westwood and their Seditionaries boutique in London. The Clothes for Heroes examines designers who extend the visual language of punk, as it was originally articulated by McClaren and Westwood. Do-it-yourself, punk’s contribution to high fashion is explored in the four final galleries focus on couture’s use of studs, spikes, chains, zippers,padlocks, safety pins and razor blade with Sid Vicious as its icon.MUSIC and VIDEOSPresented as an immersive multimedia, multisensory experience, the clothes are animated with period music videos andsoundscaping audio techniques; original punk pieces and videos showing punk icons wearing their infamous looks. The designers includeVersace, Balenciaga, Dolce & Gabbana and Karl Lagerfeld. It is interesting to note the couture and punk had value handcrafted, individual pieces. Bolton said, “Just as couture has made-to-measure one of a kind garments, punk would take a leather jacket and customize it so that you are the only person in the world who wears it.”
A book, Punk; Chaos To Couture, by Andrew Bolton with Prefaces by Three Punk Originals, Richard Hell, John Lydon (a.k.a. Johnny Rotten of the Sex Pistols) and Jon Savage each contribute with enlightening and fascinating essays illustrated with photographs of vintage punks and high fashion. Published by The Metropolitan Museum of Art.
A Vivienne Westwood ensemble.Photo by Thomas Iannaccone, via WWD.com
Versace’s safety pin dress that created Elizabeth Hurley.Photo by Thomas Iannaccone, via WWD.com
A Stephen Sprouse dress works a graffiti vibe.Photo by Thomas Iannaccone, via WWD.com
Photo via The Epoch Times
Images via www.sentinelandenterprise.com
A series of Comme des Garçons dresses against a video wall featuring Johnny Rotten.Photo by Thomas Iannaccone, via WWD.comWritten by Polly Guerin - Art, Contributors, de Kooning, Drawings, Durer, Morgan Library, Photography, Polly Guerin, Polly Talk, The Metropolitan Museum
Autumn in New York
Rich cultural venues drive the wealth of museum openings to keep New Yorkers and tourists busy in the world’s most fascinating city, fueling inspiration on a broad scale from historical to modern. Here’s the scoop!!! CROSSING BORDERS: Manuscripts from the Bodleian Libraries. For a rare glimpse into antiquity when books were unique works of art as well as repositories of knowledge, head uptown to The Jewish Museum for Crossing Borders, the meeting place of medieval cultures, where illuminated manuscripts from England’s Bodleian Library, established by Thomas Bodley in 1602 are on display. Renowned for its great treasures, this exhibition features over 60 works, Hebrew, Arabic and Latin manuscripts, the majority of which have never been seen in the United States including the splendid Kennicott Bible, the most lavishly illuminated Hebrew Bible to survive from medieval Spain.
In addition to viewing the actual illuminated manuscript, visitors will be able to look at digital images of every page in several of the bibles and examine details on touch screens. At The Jewish Museum, 1109 Fifth Avenue at 92nd St., through February 3, 2013, T-212.423.3200.
DURER TO de KOONING: 100 Master Drawings from Munich marks the first time such a comprehensive and prestigious selection of works has been lent to a single exhibition. The Morgan Library & Museum hosts an extraordinary exhibition of rarely-seen master drawings from the Staatliche Graphische Sammlung, Munich, one of Europe’s most distinguished drawings collections. Durer to de Kooning occupies the Morgan’s principal galleries containing more than 60 Italian, German, Dutch, French drawings of the 15th through the 19th centuries with celebrated artists Rubens, Michelangelo, Rembrandt and Titian while the second gallery features late-nineteenth-century and modern contemporary works. Through January 2013. 225 Madison Ave.
FAKING IT: Manipulated Photography Before PhotoshopFAKING IT: Manipulated Photography Before Photoshop While digital photography and image editing software have brought about an increased awareness of the degree to which camera images can be manipulated, the practice of doctoring photographs has existed since the medium was invent. Featuring some 200 visually captivating photographs created between the 1840s and 1990s in the service of art, politics news, entertainment and commerce, this exhibition offers a provocative new perspective on the history of photography. The photographs in the exhibition were altered using a variety of techniques including multiple exposure, photomontage, over painting and retouching on the negative or print. The Metropolitan Museum of Art through May 2013. 1000 Fifth Avenue. SAGA SITES, Landscapes of the Icelandic Sagas. The American-Scandinavian Foundation (ASF) presents a unique exhibition tracking the great, medieval narratives of Iceland, known collectively as the Sagas of Islanders, through the 19th century watercolors of British artist W. G. Collingwood and the contemporary photographs of renowned Iceland artist Einar Falur Ingolfsson. The first of its kind in the U.S., the exhibition explores the inimitable visual dialog forged between Collingwood and Ingolfsson and highlights the significance of the sagas within Ireland’s literary heritage and their enduring cultural inspiration. Free Admission. ASF, 58 Park Ave., @38th St., through January 2012.Ta Ta darlings: Don’t miss an opportunity to see breathtaking treasures in the Jewish Museum’s rare illuminated manuscripts.Written by Polly Guerin, Polly Talk New York
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