Restaurants
- Bill Cunningham, Books, Celebrities, Food, Le Cirque, Life and Style, Restaurants, Sirio Maccioni, The New York Times
A New Chapter for Le Cirque
What makes a restaurant legendary in a city that has seen its fair share of great restaurants come and go through the revolving door? Let me offer a suggestion. Perhaps the formula for success should be a restaurant with a combination between Italian cuisine alongside the french classics? If that is the case, than Le Cirque, celebrated for its fine dining and frequent celebrity spotting, has managed to achieve this coveted feat since 1974.
So this evening, when I head out to the book launch of A Table at Le Cirque, I know that it will be a charming occasion to mingle with my friends, and perhaps chat with the seductive Sirio Maccioni, who most famously, created a buzzing social club for titans and tastemakers from all walks of life, from every U.S. president since Nixon, kings and Hollywood royalty; café society and business magnates.
Above photos property of Le CirqueAll rights reservedAs I’m writing this post, I’m also glancing over the pages of A Table at Le Cirque… It is the first book to chronicle the fascinating stories, fabled history, the glitz and glamour, and the iconic recipes from the restaurant that is synonymous with luxury. The first half of the book recounts Maccioni’s journey from Montecatini to Manhattan and Le Cirque’s rise to glory. There are hundreds of photographs and drawings, and they all represent a visual history of the world inside the tent (some of them captured by The New York Times society photographer Bill Cunningham who posted himself, in rain or shine, in front of the entrance to capture the comings and goings. I see fashion titans Oscar de La Renta and Carolina Herrera; moguls Donald Trump and Swifty Lazar; socialites Blaine Trump and Nan Kempner; media mavens Barbara Walters and Liz Smith; music legends Mick Jagger, Frank Sinatra, and Diana Ross; celebrities Woody Allen and Sophia Loren, to name a few. I also get to go inside the kitchens of each tenured chef from Jean Vergnes to Olivier Reginensi, each of whom brought something amazing to the table, as well as witness the reinvention of Le Cirque at the three Manhattan locations the restaurant has occupied in its storied history.
My favorite Chocolate Soufflé at Sirio Maccioni’s Le CirqueThe second part of the book shares the recipes that have kept everyone coming back for four decades. Le Cirque has been credited with inventing a cornucopia of plates that have become legendary: Jean Vergnes’s Dover Sole Le Cirque and Spaghetti Primavera, Alain Sailhac’s Fettuccine with White Truffles, Daniel Boulud’s Lobster Salad, Pierre Schaedelin’s deconstructed Caesar Salad, Jacques Torres’s Bombolini, and Sottha Khunn’s update on Chicken Diable. Enticing isn’t it? Now even you can try these delicious dishes at home by obtaining this movable feast at their online store. What are you waiting for? -
Paris Is Always A Good Idea
Les Deux Magots, Paris
Whenever I visit Saint-Germain-des-Prés, it’s not until I sip my first cup of coffee at Les Deux Magots, that I truly feel that I’m in Paris. It’s no secret that nowadays this famous hangout is well known for being a tourist destination, but most Parisians still consider it a favorite jaunt to see and be seen. My experience in the city of lights have taught me that no other places in this town is as welcoming, nor convey the true Parisian spirit, as this quintessential Parisian café.
These days, my mind is more focus on Paris, since I’ve been considering moving there in the next three years. That’s right, you heard it here first. It’s no big surprise really. I’ve always considered Paris my home, and since I’ve been consulting with a couple of luxury companies located in the Marais district, the idea is becoming more and more appealing. And before I forget, my apologies for the delay of posts for the past week or two. It’s been a movable feast.
Photo credits: 1st Black and White: From Edouard Boubat, 1955, Gelatin silver print from Peter Fetterman Gallery. Original still life painting “Lunch at Les Deux Magots, Paris, acrylic on canvas by BL Murray. 2nd Black and White: Dovina with Sacha, Cloche and Suit by Balenciaga, Cafe des Deux Magots, Paris, August, 1955, by Richard Avedon.
NOTE: Please notify us directly, if you believe that certain images on this post are alleged to infringe upon the copyrights of others, according to the Digital Millennium Copyright Act (DMCA). Thank you.You May Also Like
Alain Ducasse’ Sweet Life
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The Weekender: Maimonide of Brooklyn’s Opening Celebration
Culture Chic!And the party went on, and on, and on at Maimonide (also known as M.O.B.) during its grand opening on Wednesday night. And why not? I cannot think of a better combination than great food and music. And there was plenty of both going around all evening. Guests were treated to delicious vegetarian and vegan friendly cuisine that is affectionately known as avant-garde vegetarian food for carnivores.
Dishes included dried fruit saucissons, vegan chicken nuggets, and open-faced sandwiches that were topped with wholesome ingredients, which are called MOBs. Try the veggie burgers the next time you visit them, and let me know what you think. If this is the way vegetarians eat, I do not think I want to be a carnivore anymore. On second thoughts, I do enjoy a good steak at Sparks from time to time.
This restaurant is a wonderful addition to the ever vibrant and culture chic side of Brooklyn, and I loved its playful design which is an homage to 90s hip-hop culture, Brooklyn, and the healthy-living beliefs of the famous Jewish philosopher Maimonides. The walls have poetry by Brooklyn poets, and displays of paraphernalia bringing Brooklyn’s legends to life (Notorious B.I.G. and Spike Lee).The tables are communal style and each vegetable and fruit used on the menu has a sign on the wall, tombstone style. The corn soup is made with popcorn, to remember the time when corn was grown in Boerum Hill. How nostalgic. The ideas behind the MOB sandwich and the inclusion of Maimonides is explained through the story of Barack, a former fast-food delivery man, who realizes the error of his ways and heads off to save the world, one healthy meal at a time.
M.O.B. is the brainchild of Cyril Aouizerate. His partner in the project is Alain Senderens, the Executive Chef is Neal Harden and Zorina Price is the General Manager. Aouizerate is also the founder of Urbantech and co-founder of Mama Shelter, both located in France. The extraordinary flair of M.O.B. is the fact that the owner has combined his love for urban planning, architecture and philosophy. He’s done it in such way, that it all seemed flawless. Partner Alain Senderens, the legendary French chef, earned 28 consecutive years of three Michelin stars at Lucas Carton before famously rebelling against France’s strict star ranking system and democratizing the restaurant; he contributed to the menu with Executive Chef Neal Harden, formerly of Pure Food & Wine. This concept is so great, and I wondered why no one else have thought of it before. I believe that M.O.B will be a destination restaurant, and no doubt Manhattanites won’t mind the short taxi ride from Midtown, or the 20 minutes train hike from Times Square. I for one, will be making that regular trip. Maimonide is located at 525 Atlantic Avenue, Brooklyn, New York.
Cyril Aouizerate
Ouigi Theodore
Tim Goossens
Partygoers, and Cyril Aouizerate
Partygoers
SucculentLeft and right: veggie burgers
What’s on the menu?Vegetarian food for carnivores
Vyna St Phard, Cyril AouizeratePhoto courtesy High End Weekly
Vyna St Phard, Laura Rothfuss
Andrew and Andrew
Malik So Chic
The Godfather of Hip-Hop Afrika Bambaataa, and Cyril Aouizerate
Sarma Melngailis, Louis C.K.
Andrew and Andrew
ProlificBrooklyn-based MC, DJ, and Beatboxer Rabbi Darkside
Partygoers
Right: Jenna Lee Scott, and friends
Cyril Aouizerate, Zorina Price
Legendary French chef Alain Senderens, with Executive Chef Neal Harden, and Maimonide Founder Cyril Aouizerate
Party Rocking in BrooklynPhotos courtesy Billy Farrell AgencyAll rights reserved -
Alain Ducasse’ Sweet Life
Alain DucasseThe chef talks to Lettie Teague about travel, Champagne and the wine he’s ‘obsessed’ with– by Lettie Teague from WSJ“There are days when I drink only water; those are the days that follow the nights when I’ve had too much wine,” chef Alain Ducasse said to me soon after we met. What kind of night was last night, I wondered. I didn’t have to wonder long. “Today is a Champagne day,” he declared.Chef Ducasse (no one calls him “Mister”) and I met for lunch at Benoit, one of 22 Ducasse restaurants around the world and one of his two in New York.
Benoit is the casual counterpart to his more formal Adour in the St. Regis Hotel, which, in turn, is nowhere near as fancy as his Michelin three-star restaurants in London, Paris and Monaco. (Although he was born in France, Chef Ducasse became a citizen of Monaco about three years ago.) Chef Ducasse had been in New York for less than 24 hours by the time of our meeting and was slated to leave again very soon. When your empire is scattered all over the world, you can’t stay in one place for very long. He estimated that he was in an airplane at least “once or twice a week” on trips to his various restaurants and hotels in London, Paris, Monaco and Las Vegas—not to mention Italy, Japan, China and the island of Mauritius off the southeast African coast.
Did he ever drink wine on airplanes? “It is the exception,” Chef Ducasse said. (Sometimes he answered my questions in English and sometimes he spoke to his communications manager Sonia Toulouse, who translated his French.) Chef Ducasse recalled drinking some Krug Champagne recently en route from London to Tokyo. “The Asian airlines have the best wine programs,” he said.Our lunch began with glasses of Paul Goerg Rosé nonvintage Champagne, a lovely wine from a cooperative of growers. Chef Ducasse is a self-declared Champagne lover and has a private-label Champagne bottled just for his restaurants. The Ducasse Champagne, a medium-bodied, fairly rich wine, is made by the large Champagne house Lanson Champagne, because they are “very consistent,” according to Chef Ducasse.
Despite his affection for Champagne, Chef Ducasse’s cellar at home in Monaco is dominated by Burgundy and Bordeaux, many of them grand crus and first growths. But the chef said he wasn’t a snob about high-status bottles; the wines simply had to be good. “It’s not a question of price,” he said. “It’s good at five euros or it’s good at 500 euros.” What was the last five-euro wine that he had actually tasted? “It was an Italian wine. I had it in Maremma in Tuscany at my country hotel,” he recalled. “It cost about 10 euros.” (I assumed he was talking about its retail price, though of course it could have been from the hotel mini bar.)
But there was no time to inquire; the sommelier was already pouring the next wine, the 2009 Domaine Guillaman. A clean, bright white blend from Gascogny, it was a perfectly serviceable aperitif and accompaniment to the mixed plate of hors d’oeuvres that included cod brandade, veal tongue and leeks in vinaigrette sauce.
But our vinous paths diverged with the arrival of the next course: steamed loup de mer for me and steak frites for Chef Ducasse. “I was in the mood for steak at the last minute,” he said when he saw me eyeing his lunch with ill-disguised envy.
We were each served two different wines: two French reds for Chef Ducasse (the 2007 Domaine de L’Aurage Côtes de Castillon and the 2009 Gouleyant Malbec from Cahors) and a California Chardonnay (2008 Robin K from the Russian River) and a Chenin Blanc from the Loire (2009 Château de la Roulerie Anjou) for me.
The fish was good but I had to admit I wasn’t enthralled by either of the white wines; the Robin K was a bit oaky, the Chenin a touch vegetal. Chef Ducasse offered me a taste of his wines. I liked his lush, ripe Cahors, though it wasn’t an ideal match with my fish. Did he think that such things mattered, or was there too much fuss made about matching wine and food?
“There are no rules,” he said. “You have to taste the wine with an open mind. You can drink red wine with lobster and white wine with lamb.” In that case, perhaps he’d like to try my slightly vegetal Anjou or the rather oaky Chardonnay with his steak? “I’m not a fan of oaky wine.” Chef Ducasse replied.
I liked his Cahors very much, on the other hand. “If the Cahors cost less than 10 euros, it was very good,” Chef Ducasse replied. “When I taste a wine I like to know how much it costs.” (The wine is in fact about $13 at retail.)
“The world of wine is more creative than the world of cooking,” Chef Ducasse observed, growing more expansive as he consumed a bit more of the Cahors. “There are so many impassioned winemakers. I think there are more impassioned winemakers than chefs.”
Who were some of the impassioned winemakers he had in mind? “Madame Bize-Leroy,” he answered decisively, naming the director of the great Bize-Leroy Burgundy domaine. “Madame Leroy was the first to make biodynamic wines in Burgundy. She is an original.” Who else? Chef Ducasse shook his head. “I don’t want to give names. Someone will call and ask, ‘Why didn’t you mention me?'”
Ten minutes—and a glass of 2009 Château Villefranche Sauternes later—Chef Ducasse admitted to having a bit of an “obsession” with Pignan, the second wine of Château Rayas, the famed Châteauneuf du Pape estate. “It’s everything I look for in a wine,” he said, seeming to forget his self-imposed restriction on naming names.
“Food and drink is a pretense to seduction,” Chef Ducasse said, waggling his eyebrows comically as we finished our first dessert—a strawberry frasier—and made our way through some profiteroles, sipping 2004 La Coume du Roy fortified wine from Maury, a French village near the Spanish border.
Suddenly the great multi-starred Michelin chef was transformed into… Maurice Chevalier. Wine—whether it costs 5 euros or 500—can do that do you.
Oenofile
Chef Ducasse travels the globe, but he’s loyal to wines from his native FrancePaul Goerg Brut Rosé Champagne, $40
While the name Paul Goerg may not be particularly well known in this country, it is more familiar in France. It’s not a single family’s Champagne house but a cooperative of growers who contribute fruit to produce quality wines—like this elegant, dry rosé—under the Goerg label.
2009 Domaine Guillaman Côtes de Gascogne, $11Southwest France is probably best known as the home of Armagnac (a favorite drink of Chef Ducasse), but plenty of well-made unfortified wines are produced there as well, including this white blend of Colombard and Ugni Blanc (the grape of Armagnac). It’s not particularly complex, but it’s refreshing, juicy and bright.
2004 La Coume du Roy Maury, $35 (500 ml)The fortified red wines of the Maury region in (yes, again) southwest France, seem to be tailor-made for chocolate. This bottling comes from Maury’s oldest producer.
2009 Georges Vigouroux Gouleyant Cahors, $13This lush, ripe, densely fruited red is made predominantly from Malbec (the balance is Merlot) in the Cahors region of southwest France. Made by Georges Vigouroux, one of the leading Cahors producers, it’s a great deal at under $15 a bottle.
2009 Chateau Villefranche Sauternes, $22 (half bottle)
The 2009 vintage was superb for both red Bordeaux and Sauternes. This modestly priced Sauternes is soft and attractive. Predominantly made from Semillon, with a bit of Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle, it has a pretty nose of apricot. It’s a fine companion to fruit and fruit-based desserts.
Photo credits: Jonny Valiant, and F. Martin Raminfor the The Wall Street Journal
