Postcard From Cartagena

With its 400-year old Spanish colonial refurbished mansions, upscale boutique hotels, fusion restaurants, distinctive fashion labels, and fine jewelry boutiques, Cartagena, Colombia’s best-kept secret, is emerging as the place to visit this year. The country’s civil war has subsided and this vibrant seaside city is experiencing a stunning rebirth. While many visitors only knew about Cartagena from ‘Romancing the Stone’ or the fiction of Gabriel Garcia Marquez, the city is resurfacing. Wealthy residents of Bogota have bought abandoned properties, and turned them into lavish weekend getaways-replete with terraced swimming pools.

The best way to enjoy this sultry Caribbean port city with its easy vibe is by simply putting on a pair of comfortable shoes, and meandering along narrow, cobble stoned streets past pastel-colored walls, and discreet doors that hide fountain-gurgling courtyards accented with tropical plants. During the day, when the temperature hovers over 90 degrees, I visited several attractions: the haunting Palace of The Inquisition, the Gold Museum with its fascinating collection of pre-Columbian jewelry and artifacts, the bright yellow, Baroque Cathedral. Café-edged plazas were filled with vendors selling watermelon, mango and papaya, and shots of strong espresso. A taxi is rarely needed. And the most romantic way to experience Cartagena is via, a horse-and-carriage ride through the city’s winding streets.

Outstanding works by Yoko Ono, Leo Villareal, Nick Cave, & Mickalene Thomas, to name just a few, fill the historic district’s museums, churches, pop-up galleries, industrial buildings, and public spaces.

Throughout the year, Cartagena hosts classical music, literary and film festivals. Most recently, the International Contemporary Art Biennale, Cartagena is taking place throughout April 7th. Founded by Nohra Haime, the ebullient owner of prestigious galleries in NY and Cartagena, this year’s fair is focused on paintings, sculpture, video, photography and performance pieces created by 120 Colombian and international artists. Outstanding works by Yoko Ono, Leo Villareal, Nick Cave, & Mickalene Thomas, to name just a few, fill the historic district’s museums, churches, pop-up galleries, industrial buildings, and public spaces. What enhances this experience is a chance to view art works within timeless locations scattered throughout the city. Just outside the city’s walls is Getsemani, a yet-to-be gentrified locale filled with technicolor wall murals painted by local artists, a vibrant street and lively nightlife. Everyone goes to Café Havana for late-night salsa and the best mojitos in town. Nearby, Casa Lola, with its rooftop pool, is the place for travelers in the know.

Left: Martha Stewart at the Palace of Inquisition Contemporary Art Biennale cocktail reception

During the opening days of the Contemporary Art Biennale, I attended a glamorous gala dinner at the Museum of Modern Art of Cartagena. The event attracted the likes of elegantly attired women and their partners in crisp, white embroidered guayaberas, various political officials (former and present), and a contingent of jet-setters from NY (including Martha Stewart) who always manage to be in the right place at the right time.

Colombians are warm and welcoming, and a chance to meet Colombia’s First Lady, Maria Clemencia de Santos dining with Cecilia Pineras, Chile’s First Lady, Nicole Furman, selected as one of Colombia’s most stylish women by Mexican Vogue, well-known artist Valentino Cortezar (father of fashion designer Esteban), among many others too many to mention.

Right: Mariana Zegarra, owner of Mariana’s Beach Club

For a change of pace, I booked a trip to Mariana’s Beach Club for a relaxing lunch. Boarding a private boat for a hair-raising10-minute ride across the bay, I arrived at Terra Bomba, a tranquil oasis where cerviche and sangria were served on oversized. white sofas in breezy patios. In very recent years, Cartagena has become a destination for discerning culinary travelers. First and foremost, La Vitrola is the must see-and –be- seen, highly-touted restaurant and club. Reminiscent of old Havana, this charming place is a combination of whirring fans, swaying palms, dark window shutters, and happy patrons who push tables aside to salsa dance. Reservations are a must. Another restaurant that I discovered was the brand-new, refined Frank and Frank. On its rooftop terrace, I joined a group of locals for rose wine and stimulating conversation, before dining on citrus-flavored filet of red snapper served with potato crisps.

Iglesia de la Catedral

I was fortunate enough to book a room at the Casa del Coliseo. Located in the heart of town in a lovingly restored 17th century colonial building, its owner, Juan Carlos Duque-Arilia, a well-known Miami-based interior designer, has created a chic and comfortable spot. With an unerring eye for detail, he has joined the old-world (historic photos of Cartagena, large salons with crystal chandeliers, marble-patterned floors) and the new (cable tv, A.C., wireless internet featured in impeccably-clean rooms with amazingly comfortable beds). Each morning, after a cooked breakfast, Maria, the tireless and attentive concierge, helped me map out a daily itinerary. And in the late afternoon, I would retreat to the rooftop terrace for a bracing swim.

Fernando Botero

The luxurious, terra-cotta-walled Sofitel Santa Clara attracts an international crowd that returns year after year: spacious rooms filled wit décor handcrafted in Colombia. fine restaurants, the El Coro bar, 1621wine bar, enormous swimming pool, and sybaritic spa make it a perfect getaway. I spent a perfect, languid afternoon enjoying ice-cream, endless iced- cappuccinos while taking in the sight of an extravagant, recumbent Botero nude in the lush courtyard.

Right: Centro de Formacion de la cooperacion Espanola

My week in Cartagena went by too quickly. On my last evening, I strolled to the Café del Mar, an open –air bar overlooking the ocean. Marveled at gorgeous sunset before catching a 41/2 hour flight on Jet Blue to JFK.